Introduction
When your water heater works, it’s one of the most overlooked appliances in your home. When it doesn’t, it’s an emergency. At Honest Fix Heating, Cooling & Plumbing, we believe homeowners deserve clear, straightforward answers to their questions, especially when it comes to an investment as important as a water heater. This guide is designed to be the most complete and honest resource for anyone looking to buy, maintain, or troubleshoot a Rheem water heater.
Our mission is simple: to earn your trust through hard work and honest answers. We don’t believe in upsells or games; we believe in solving problems the right way and explaining every step. This guide is an extension of that philosophy. Whether you’re trying to decide between a tank or tankless model, wondering what an error code means, or looking for a trusted installer in the Ohio Valley, you’ll find the information you need right here.
Section 1: Choosing the Right Rheem Water Heater for Your Home
Selecting a new water heater can feel overwhelming with all the different types, models, and brands available. This section breaks down Rheem’s offerings to help you make a confident and informed decision that fits your home, family, and budget.
1.1 An Expert’s Overview of Rheem Water Heater Types
Rheem offers four main types of residential water heaters. Understanding the fundamental differences in how they operate is the first step in choosing the right one.
- Gas Tank Water Heaters: These are the traditional workhorses found in many homes. They use a gas burner to heat a large, insulated tank of water (typically 30-75 gallons) and keep it ready for use.
- Pros: Generally have a faster recovery rate than electric models (meaning they can heat water more quickly after the tank is depleted) and can have lower monthly operating costs in areas with affordable natural gas.
- Cons: Require proper venting to the outdoors to safely exhaust combustion gases, which can complicate installation. They also rely on a pilot light or electronic ignition, which can sometimes be a point of failure.
- Electric Tank Water Heaters: Similar to gas models in that they store hot water in a tank, but they use electric heating elements to heat the water.
- Pros: Typically have a lower upfront purchase price and are simpler to install because they don’t require gas lines or venting.
- Cons: Can have higher monthly operating costs depending on local electricity rates and generally have a slower recovery rate than gas models.
- Tankless Water Heaters (Gas & Electric): Also known as on-demand water heaters, these units do not store water. Instead, they use powerful burners or elements to heat water instantly as it flows through the unit.
- Pros: They provide a continuous, endless supply of hot water. They are also extremely energy-efficient since they aren’t constantly heating a tank of water, which can lead to significant long-term savings. Their compact, wall-mounted design saves valuable floor space.
- Cons: The initial purchase and installation cost is significantly higher than for tank models. They may also require upgrades to your home’s electrical panel (for electric models) or gas lines (for gas models) to handle the high power demand.
- Hybrid (Heat Pump) Water Heaters: These are the most energy-efficient electric water heaters available. They don’t create heat directly; instead, they capture heat from the surrounding air and transfer it to the water in the tank, much like a refrigerator works in reverse.
- Pros: They are up to five times more efficient than a standard electric water heater, leading to substantial savings on electricity bills. Many models qualify for federal tax credits and local utility rebates, which can help offset the higher initial cost.
- Cons: They have a higher upfront cost than standard electric models and require adequate airflow and space for installation (often in a basement or garage).
1.2 Decoding Rheem’s Product Lines: Professional vs. Performance vs. Classic
One of the most common points of confusion for homeowners is the difference between the Rheem water heaters sold at big-box retail stores and those available only through professional plumbing contractors. They are not the same. Understanding this difference is critical to making a smart investment.
The models available to the public at retailers like Home Depot are typically from the Performance series. These are good, functional units designed to hit a competitive price point. The models sold through plumbing supply houses to licensed contractors are from the Professional series. These units are built with higher-grade components designed for greater durability and easier serviceability.
The table below breaks down the key differences:
Feature | Performance Series (Retail) | Professional Series (Plumber Supplied) | Why It Matters |
Where to Buy | Big-box stores (Home Depot, etc.) | Plumbing supply houses (via licensed plumbers) | Professional models are built to a higher standard for contractors who stake their reputation on the equipment they install. |
Drain Valve | Plastic | Brass | Brass valves are far more durable and less prone to breaking or cross-threading during routine maintenance like flushing the tank. |
Gas Valve | Plastic case | Metal case | A metal-cased gas valve is more robust and less susceptible to damage over time. |
Heating Elements (Electric) | Two standard copper elements | One copper element, one stainless steel element | The stainless steel lower element offers superior resistance to corrosion and sediment buildup, extending its life. |
Self-Cleaning System | Basic or not included | EverKleen® system included | The EverKleen® system creates a swirling water action that significantly reduces sediment buildup, improving efficiency and prolonging tank life. |
Warranty Support | Often requires returning the entire unit to the store, which can be a major hassle. | Plumbers can often get replacement parts directly and handle claims more efficiently, minimizing downtime. |
Within these lines, Rheem also offers different tiers, typically labeled Classic/Performance, Classic Plus/Performance Plus, and Prestige/Performance Platinum. These tiers represent good, better, and best options, with upgrades in efficiency, warranty length, and features at each level. For example, a Performance model might have a 6-year anode rod, while a Performance Plus has a 9-year rod, and a Performance Platinum has a 12-year magnesium rod for maximum longevity.
1.3 Specialty Deep Dives: The Marathon and Gladiator Models Explained
Beyond the standard series, Rheem offers specialty models with unique features that address specific homeowner needs.
- Rheem Marathon Series: The standout feature of the Marathon is its tank. Instead of steel, it’s made from a seamless, blow-molded polybutene inner tank wrapped in a filament-wound fiberglass outer shell.
- Key Benefit: This plastic tank is completely immune to rust and corrosion, which is the leading cause of tank failure in traditional water heaters. Because of this, Rheem backs the Marathon with a lifetime limited tank warranty for as long as you own your home. It also features exceptional insulation, with a standby heat loss of only about 5∘F over 24 hours, making it highly efficient.
- Rheem Gladiator Series: The Gladiator is Rheem’s “smart” electric water heater, designed to protect your home from water damage.
- Key Benefit: It features the built-in LeakSense™ detection system, which can identify a leak, and the LeakGuard™ auto-shutoff valve, which automatically closes the incoming water line to prevent a flood. It also includes EcoNet® Wi-Fi, allowing you to adjust the temperature, track energy usage, and receive alerts directly on your smartphone.
1.4 Head-to-Head Comparison: Rheem vs. A.O. Smith vs. Bradford White
From a professional plumber’s perspective, these three brands are the top contenders in the market. While all are dependable, they have different strengths.
- Rheem: Often seen as the innovator, Rheem excels in energy efficiency, particularly with its ProTerra® hybrid heat pump models, and leads the way in smart technology with its EcoNet® platform. Its wide availability in retail stores makes it a popular choice.
- A.O. Smith: This brand has a strong reputation for building durable, reliable water heaters with commercial-grade quality in their residential lines. They offer a very broad selection of models and are known for features like their Blue Diamond® glass lining for corrosion protection.
- Bradford White: Often called the “plumber’s choice,” Bradford White water heaters are sold exclusively through professional plumbing supply channels and require professional installation to validate the warranty. They are renowned for their exceptional durability and build quality, featuring technologies like the Vitraglas® tank lining and the Hydrojet® system to combat sediment buildup. While they may have fewer high-tech smart features, they are built to last, especially in areas with hard water.
1.5 How to Correctly Size a Water Heater for Your Household
Properly sizing your water heater is critical. An undersized unit will constantly run out of hot water, while an oversized unit will waste energy. The sizing method depends on the type of heater.
- For Tank Water Heaters (Gas, Electric, Hybrid): Sizing is based on First Hour Rating (FHR). This number tells you how many gallons of hot water the unit can produce in one hour of continuous use, starting with a full tank. To find the right FHR, you need to calculate your home’s Peak Hour Demand.Worksheet for Estimating Peak Hour Demand Use this worksheet to estimate your maximum hot water usage during your busiest one-hour period (e.g., morning showers).
Hot Water Use | Avg. Gallons Used | × | Times Used in 1 Hour | = | Gallons Used in 1 Hour |
Shower | 20 | × | = | ||
Bath | 20 | × | = | ||
Shaving | 2 | × | = | ||
Hand/Food Prep | 3 | × | = | ||
Dishwasher | 7 | × | = | ||
Clothes Washer | 25 (Top-Load) or 15 (Front-Load) | × | = | ||
Total Peak Hour Demand |
Export to Sheets
*Source: [37]*
Once you calculate your total, choose a Rheem tank model with an FHR that meets or exceeds that number.[37, 38]
- For Tankless Water Heaters: Sizing depends on two factors: flow rate and temperature rise.
- Calculate Maximum Flow Rate: Add up the gallons per minute (GPM) of all the fixtures you might use at the same time. For example, two showers (2.5 GPM each) and a faucet (0.75 GPM) would require a flow rate of at least 5.75 GPM.
- Determine Required Temperature Rise (Delta T): Subtract the temperature of the incoming groundwater from your desired hot water temperature (typically 120∘F). In the Ohio Valley, our groundwater can be as cold as 40∘F in the winter. To get 120∘F water, you would need a temperature rise of 80∘F (120∘F−40∘F). You must choose a tankless model that can provide your required flow rate at your required temperature rise.
1.6 Understanding the True Cost: Rheem Water Heater Prices and Installation Factors
The price on the box is only part of the story. The total cost of a new water heater includes the unit itself, installation labor, materials, and potentially permits or code upgrades.
- Unit Cost: Rheem tank water heaters typically range from $400 to $2,300, depending on the size, fuel type, and series (Performance vs. Professional, etc.). Tankless and hybrid models have a higher upfront cost, often ranging from $1,200 to over $2,500.
- Installation Cost: Labor for a straightforward replacement of a tank water heater can range from $500 to $1,500. Tankless installations are more complex and can range from $1,200 to $3,500 or more.
- Factors Affecting Total Cost:
- Type and Fuel Source: Converting from electric to gas is the most expensive scenario, as it requires running a new gas line.
- Venting: Gas heaters require venting. Power-vent and direct-vent models are more expensive to install than standard atmospheric vents.
- Location: If the water heater needs to be moved, the cost will increase due to the need to re-route plumbing, electrical, and/or gas lines.
- Code Upgrades: Current building codes may require new additions like an expansion tank ($90 – $350), a drain pan, or seismic straps, which add to the cost.
- Permits and Disposal: Many municipalities require a permit for water heater replacement ($25 – $300), and there is often a fee for hauling away and disposing of the old unit ($50 – $150).
Section 2: Rheem Water Heater Installation: What to Expect
Proper installation is just as important as choosing the right model. A poor installation can lead to poor performance, safety hazards, and a shorter lifespan for your unit.
2.1 Professional Installation vs. DIY: A Straightforward Risk Assessment
While it can be tempting to save money by installing a water heater yourself, this is one job where the risks often outweigh the rewards. A professional installation ensures the job is done safely and correctly the first time.
Consider the risks of a DIY installation:
- Gas Leaks: Improperly connected gas lines can lead to slow leaks or, in the worst-case scenario, an explosion. This work should always be handled by a licensed professional.
- Carbon Monoxide Poisoning: Incorrectly installed venting on a gas water heater can leak deadly, odorless carbon monoxide into your home.
- Electrical Hazards: Electric water heaters operate on a high-voltage 240V circuit, which poses a serious risk of electrocution if not handled correctly.
- Water Damage: Improperly soldered or tightened water connections can lead to major leaks and costly water damage to your home.
- Voided Warranty: Many manufacturers, including Rheem, may void the warranty if the unit is not installed by a licensed and qualified professional according to local codes.
At Honest Fix, we believe in doing things the thorough way, never the fast way. For an appliance this critical, professional installation is the only way to guarantee safety and long-term reliability.
2.2 The Installation Process: A General Step-by-Step Guide
To help you understand what a professional installation involves, here is a general overview of the steps a qualified technician will take:
- Shut Off Utilities: The technician will safely turn off the water supply to the old unit and shut off the corresponding gas valve or electrical breaker.
- Drain the Old Tank: A hose is connected to the drain valve, and the old tank is completely emptied.
- Remove the Old Unit: The old water heater is disconnected from the water, gas/electric, and vent lines and safely removed from your home.
- Position the New Unit: The new Rheem water heater is carefully placed and leveled.
- Connect Plumbing: New, high-quality connectors are used to attach the hot and cold water lines. A new shut-off valve is typically installed on the cold water inlet.
- Install Safety Devices: A new Temperature and Pressure (T&P) relief valve is installed, and a drain line is run from it to a proper drain. If required by code, an expansion tank is installed on the cold water line to manage pressure fluctuations.
- Connect Fuel Source and Venting: For gas models, the gas line is connected, and all connections are tested for leaks. Venting is installed or reconnected according to strict code requirements. For electric models, the 240V circuit is safely connected.
- Fill and Test: The tank is completely filled with water, and air is purged from the lines by opening faucets in the home. The unit is then powered on, and all connections are re-checked for leaks as the system comes up to temperature.
2.3 Finding a Trusted Rheem Installer in the Ohio Valley
For homeowners in our service area, choosing a local professional who understands our regional needs is key. At Honest Fix Heating, Cooling & Plumbing, we are your local experts for Rheem water heater installation. We proudly serve a 10-mile radius around Steubenville, Ohio, including:
- Steubenville, OH
- Toronto, OH
- Mingo Junction, OH
- Wintersville, OH
- Burgettstown, PA
- Weirton, WV
We know the local plumbing and electrical codes inside and out, and we understand the challenges our local water conditions can present. We install professional-grade Rheem water heaters—the same ones we would put in our own homes—to ensure you get the best performance and longevity.
Call now for a free exact quote. No pressure. No surprises. We’ll help you choose the right Rheem model for your home and provide a clear, upfront price for a thorough, professional installation. That’s the Honest Fix way.
Section 3: A Homeowner’s Guide to Operating and Maintaining Your Rheem Unit
Proper operation and routine maintenance are the best ways to ensure your Rheem water heater runs efficiently and lasts for years. This section provides clear, step-by-step instructions for common tasks.
3.1 Setting and Adjusting the Temperature
Setting your water heater’s temperature is a balance between comfort, safety, and efficiency. The recommended setting is typically 120∘F to prevent scalding, especially in homes with children or elderly individuals.
- Gas Models: Most gas models have a dial on the gas control valve near the bottom of the tank. The settings are often labeled with words rather than numbers. While it can vary, a common approximation is:
- Low/Vacation: Keeps the pilot lit but does not actively heat water.
- Hot: Approximately 120∘F.
- A: Approximately 130∘F.
- B: Approximately 140∘F.
- C / Very Hot: Approximately 150∘F or higher. Simply turn the dial to your desired setting.
- Electric Models: Electric models have two thermostats, an upper and a lower, located behind access panels on the side of the tank.
- SAFETY FIRST: Turn off the power to the water heater at your home’s circuit breaker panel.
- Remove the screws holding the access panels in place.
- Pull back the insulation to reveal the thermostats.
- Using a flathead screwdriver, adjust the dial on each thermostat to your desired temperature. It is important that both thermostats are set to the same temperature.
- Replace the insulation and access panels before restoring power.
- Smart/Digital Models: Newer models like the Gladiator or ProTerra Hybrid feature an electronic control panel on the unit itself. You can adjust the temperature directly using the up and down arrows on the display. If connected to EcoNet®, you can also adjust the temperature remotely through the smartphone app.
3.2 Essential Maintenance: How to Drain and Flush Your Water Heater
Over time, minerals and sediment from the water supply settle at the bottom of your tank. This buildup can cause popping noises, reduce efficiency, and lead to premature tank failure. Flushing your tank once a year is the best way to prevent this.
Here is a step-by-step guide:
- Turn Off the Power/Gas: For an electric model, turn off the breaker. For a gas model, turn the gas control knob to the “PILOT” or “OFF” position.
- Turn Off the Cold Water Supply: Close the shut-off valve on the cold water pipe leading into the top of the water heater.
- Connect a Garden Hose: Attach a standard garden hose to the drain valve located at the bottom of the tank. Run the other end of the hose to a floor drain or outside.
- Open a Hot Water Faucet: Open a hot water faucet in a sink or tub somewhere in the house. This allows air to enter the tank, preventing a vacuum and helping it drain faster.
- Open the Drain Valve: Slowly open the drain valve on the water heater. The water will begin to flow out. Be patient, as this can take some time.
- Flush the Sediment: Once the tank is empty, briefly open and close the cold water supply valve a few times. This will stir up any remaining sediment on the bottom and flush it out through the hose. Continue until the water runs clear.
- Refill the Tank: Close the drain valve and remove the hose. Open the cold water supply valve fully. Leave the hot water faucet in the house open. When water flows steadily from the faucet, all the air has been purged, and the tank is full. You can then close the faucet.
- Restore Power/Gas: Turn the circuit breaker back on or turn the gas control knob back to your desired temperature setting and relight the pilot if necessary.
3.3 Step-by-Step Guide: Replacing Your Rheem Anode Rod
The anode rod is a “sacrificial” metal rod inside your tank that is designed to corrode so your tank doesn’t. It should be inspected every 3-5 years and replaced when it’s mostly consumed. This single piece of maintenance can double the life of your water heater tank.
- Gather Tools: You will need a 1-1/16″ socket, a long breaker bar or pipe for leverage, and plumber’s tape.
- Follow Steps 1-4 for Draining: Turn off the power/gas and water, and drain a few gallons from the tank to relieve pressure.
- Locate and Remove the Anode Rod: The anode rod is usually located on top of the water heater under a plastic cap. You will need the breaker bar to get enough leverage to break it loose, as it is often very tight. If you have low overhead clearance, you may need to use a flexible, segmented anode rod for the replacement.
- Install the New Rod: Wrap the threads of the new anode rod with plumber’s tape and screw it into the tank. Tighten it securely with the socket wrench.
- Refill and Check for Leaks: Turn the water supply back on, purge the air, and carefully check for any leaks around the new anode rod before restoring power.
3.4 Advanced DIY: Replacing Heating Elements & Thermostats (Electric Models)
Warning: This is an advanced repair that involves working with 240V electricity. If you are not completely comfortable and knowledgeable, please call a professional.
- Replacing a Heating Element:
- Turn off power and drain the tank completely following the steps in section 3.2.
- Use a non-contact voltage tester to confirm the power is off at the element terminals.
- Disconnect the wires from the element.
- Use a water heater element wrench to unscrew the old element from the tank.
- Install the new element, ensuring the gasket is properly seated.
- Reconnect the wires, refill the tank completely, and check for leaks before restoring power.
- Replacing a Thermostat:
- Turn off the power at the breaker.
- Remove the access panel and insulation.
- Take a picture of the wiring before you touch anything. Labeling the wires is also a good practice.
- Disconnect the wires.
- Unclip the old thermostat from its bracket on the tank.
- Clip the new thermostat in place, ensuring it sits flush against the tank.
- Reconnect the wires exactly as they were before.
- Replace the insulation and cover before restoring power.
Section 4: The Complete Rheem Troubleshooting Manual
When your water heater acts up, it can be stressful. This section is designed to help you quickly diagnose the problem and determine if it’s something you can fix yourself or if it’s time to call for professional help.
4.1 The First Steps for Any Rheem Problem
Before diving into specific issues, run through this basic checklist. These simple steps can often solve the problem without any tools.
- Identify the Symptoms: What exactly is the heater doing (or not doing)? Is there no hot water at all? Is it just lukewarm? Is it making a strange noise? Is there a visible leak? Is an error code or status light showing?.
- Check the Power (Electric Models): Go to your home’s main electrical panel and check if the breaker for the water heater has tripped. If it has, reset it once. If it trips again, do not reset it again—this indicates a more serious electrical problem.
- Check the Gas Supply (Gas Models): Make sure the gas shut-off valve for the water heater is in the “ON” position (the handle should be parallel to the pipe). Check to see if the pilot light is lit. If other gas appliances in your home are also not working, the problem may be with your gas service.
- Check the Thermostat/Control: Ensure the temperature is set correctly and that the unit is not in “Vacation” or “Pilot” mode.
4.2 Diagnosing Common Problems
- Problem: No Hot Water
- On a Gas Heater: The most common cause is an extinguished pilot light. Other causes include a faulty thermocouple (the safety sensor that detects the pilot flame) or a failed gas control valve.
- On an Electric Heater: This is usually caused by a tripped circuit breaker, a faulty thermostat, or a burned-out heating element. If the high-temperature cutoff has tripped, you can press the red reset button on the upper thermostat, but if it trips repeatedly, it requires professional service.
- Problem: Water Leaking from the Bottom
- Minor Drips: Check the drain valve to ensure it’s fully closed and not leaking. Also, check the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve; a small drip is normal, but a steady leak indicates a problem.
- Significant Puddle: A puddle of water under the tank is a serious issue. It almost always indicates that the inner tank has corroded and failed. This is not repairable, and the water heater must be replaced immediately to prevent a major flood. This failure is often caused by years of sediment buildup or a completely consumed anode rod.
- Problem: Strange Noises
- Popping or Rumbling: This sound, often described like popcorn popping, is caused by layers of sediment at the bottom of the tank. Water gets trapped underneath the sediment, boils, and bubbles up, causing the noise. This is a sign that the tank needs to be flushed.
- Whistling or Screeching: This high-pitched sound often points to a valve that is not fully open or a failing T&P relief valve releasing pressure.
- Banging or Hammering: This noise is typically “water hammer,” caused by the abrupt stopping of water flow in the pipes, not an issue with the heater itself.
4.3 How to Safely Light the Pilot Light
If your gas water heater isn’t producing hot water, the pilot light is the first thing to check. The process is straightforward but must be done carefully.
- Turn the Gas Control Knob to “OFF”. Wait at least 5 minutes for any residual gas to clear the area. If you smell gas, stop immediately, leave the area, and call your gas company or a professional.
- Turn the Knob to the “PILOT” Position.
- Press and Hold the Control Knob Down. This manually sends gas to the pilot assembly.
- Press the Igniter Button. While holding the knob down, repeatedly press the red or black piezo igniter button. You should hear a clicking sound. Look through the small sight glass to see the spark and watch for the pilot flame to light. The status light on the gas control valve should start blinking.
- Continue Holding the Knob for 30-60 Seconds. This is critical. It allows the thermocouple to heat up. Once hot, the thermocouple will signal the gas valve that it’s safe to stay open.
- Release the Knob. The pilot light should remain lit.
- Turn the Knob to Your Desired Temperature. The main burner should ignite with a “whoosh” sound. If the pilot light goes out after you release the knob, the thermocouple is likely faulty and needs to be replaced.
4.4 Decoding Rheem’s Digital Brain: Error Codes & Status Lights
Modern Rheem water heaters use status lights and digital error codes to communicate problems. While you should always consult your specific model’s manual, here are the most common codes and their meanings.
- Blinking Blue Light: The status light on the gas control valve provides diagnostic information. The number of flashes in a sequence corresponds to a specific fault. For example, seven flashes often indicates a flammable vapor sensor lockout, while eight flashes can mean the igniter has failed.
- Common Error Codes (Tankless and High-Efficiency Models):
Error Code | Common Meaning | What You Can Check Safely | When to Call Honest Fix |
11 | Ignition Failure. The unit tried to light the burner but failed. | Check that the gas supply is on. Ensure air intake and exhaust vents are not blocked by debris, snow, or nests. | If gas and vents are clear, the issue is likely a faulty igniter, flame sensor, or gas valve. |
12 | Flame Failure. The burner lit but the flame went out unexpectedly. | This is often caused by a dirty flame sensor or inconsistent gas pressure. A power cycle may temporarily clear it. | If the code returns, the flame sensor needs professional cleaning or replacement, or the gas pressure needs to be tested. |
13 | Gas Supply Issue. The unit detected a problem with the gas supply or gas valve. | If you use propane, check if your tank is empty. For natural gas, check if other gas appliances are working. | This code points to a problem with the gas valve or gas pressure that requires a licensed professional. |
P1 | Insufficient Water Flow. (Tankless models only) Not enough water is flowing through the unit to activate it. | Check and clean the small filter screen on the cold water inlet of the unit. Ensure faucets are fully open. | If the filter is clean and the problem persists, the flow sensor inside the unit may be faulty. |
29 | Blocked Exhaust/Neutralizer. The unit’s exhaust is blocked, or the condensate neutralizer is clogged. | Check the exterior vent termination for any obstructions like leaves, nests, or snow. | This often requires disassembling the vent piping or servicing the neutralizer, which should be done by a pro. |
4.5 Resetting Your Rheem Water Heater
Sometimes, a simple reset can resolve a temporary glitch.
- Electric Models: Most electric models have a red “reset button” for the high-temperature limit switch. It’s located on the upper thermostat, behind the access panel. Turn off the power at the breaker first, then press this button firmly. If it trips again, there is an underlying problem that needs professional diagnosis.
- Gas Models (with Electronic Control): Some newer gas models can be reset by turning the power off (unplugging it or at the breaker if it’s a power vent model), waiting a few minutes, and restoring power. One specific reset procedure involves turning the temperature dial from low to high seven times within 30 seconds of restoring power.
- Tankless Models: The simplest reset is to unplug the unit from the wall outlet, wait for one minute, and plug it back in. This power cycle can clear minor electronic faults.
Section 5: Navigating Rheem Warranty, Parts, and Professional Service
Understanding what happens after your purchase is just as important as choosing the right unit. This section covers warranty details, finding parts, and knowing when to call for help.
5.1 Understanding Your Rheem Water Heater Warranty
Rheem offers some of the best warranties in the business, but it’s important to understand what “limited warranty” means.
- Warranty Terms: Most Rheem water heaters come with a 6, 9, or 12-year limited warranty on the tank and parts, and a 1-year limited warranty on labor. This means if a part fails within its warranty period, Rheem provides the part for free. However, after the first year, you are responsible for paying a professional for the labor to install that part. This is a common point of frustration for homeowners who expect labor to be covered for the full term.
- How to Check Your Warranty: The easiest way to verify your warranty is on Rheem’s official website. You will need the serial number from the rating plate on your water heater.
- Go to Rheem’s Warranty Verification Page: You can find this on their main website.
- Enter Your Serial Number: The serial number contains the manufacture date. For example, a serial number starting with “1209” was made in December of 2009.
- View Your Coverage: The tool will show you the warranty terms for your specific model.
It is highly recommended to register your product on Rheem’s website shortly after installation to ensure you receive full warranty benefits.
5.2 A Guide to Finding Common Rheem Replacement Parts
When a part fails, using genuine factory-authorized parts is the best way to ensure proper performance and maintain any remaining warranty. Rheem’s official parts brand is PROTECH.
Commonly replaced parts include:
- Anode Rods: Sacrificial rods that prevent tank corrosion.
- Heating Elements: For electric models.
- Thermostats: For electric models.
- Thermocouples & Pilot Assemblies: For gas models.
- T&P (Temperature & Pressure) Relief Valves: A critical safety device.
- Drain Valves: For flushing the tank.
You can find these parts through Rheem’s official parts website (parts.rheem.com
) or through professional plumbing supply houses.
5.3 When to Stop DIY and Call for a Professional Repair
While this guide empowers you to handle basic maintenance and troubleshooting, some situations always require a licensed professional. Your safety is the top priority.
Call a professional immediately if:
- You smell gas. Do not touch any electrical switches. Leave the house immediately and call your gas utility company from a safe distance.
- Your water heater tank is actively leaking. This cannot be repaired and requires immediate replacement to prevent a flood.
- An electrical breaker repeatedly trips. This indicates a serious electrical short circuit.
- You have tried basic troubleshooting and the problem persists. Continuing to reset a unit with an underlying fault can cause more damage.
- You are uncomfortable or unsure at any point. There is no substitute for professional experience and tools. A mistake can be costly or dangerous.
Section 6: Your Local Rheem Experts in the Ohio Valley
6.1 Why Choose a Local Pro for Your Rheem Water Heater?
When it comes to something as essential as your home’s hot water, choosing a local, accountable professional makes all the difference. A local expert understands the specific challenges of our area, from the hard water that can cause sediment buildup to the local building codes in Steubenville, Weirton, and surrounding towns. When you work with a neighborhood business, you’re not just a number; you’re a neighbor.
6.2 Honest Fix: Your Trusted Rheem Service in Steubenville and Beyond
Honest Fix Heating, Cooling & Plumbing is your local, trusted expert for Rheem water heater installation, maintenance, and repair. We serve homeowners and businesses within a 10-mile radius of Steubenville, OH, including:
- Toronto, OH
- Mingo Junction, OH
- Wintersville, OH
- Burgettstown, PA
- Weirton, WV
We specialize in water heaters, and our technicians have the training and experience to do the job right the first time. We install professional-grade Rheem products that offer superior durability and performance because we stand behind every job we do.
6.3 Get an Honest Quote Today
If you need a new Rheem water heater or a repair on your existing one, call Alex and the team at Honest Fix. We provide free, exact quotes with no pressure and no games. Just honest fixes.